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One remarkable textile in the Vinson collection seems to confirm Heringa’s theories about the early roots of north coast batik.It is a large hand woven cotton cloth, patterned with wax resist, dyed with indigo, and embellished with gold (fig. Carbon dating reveals a date of approximately 1675-1750, making it one of the earliest surviving examples of Indonesian batik.An alternate theory is suggested by the scholar Rens Heringa, who posits that batik may have initially developed along the north coast, and then spread to the courts of Central Java and coastal urban trading centers.She has proposed that the hand woven and batik patterned cloths of the Kerek region of East Java are a direct descendant of this earliest north coast style of batik production.In contrast, textiles produced along the north coast often have a broader palette of both natural and chemical dyes and bear patterns echoing inspiration from a wide range of cultures.
Examples from the Central Javanese cities of Yogyakarta and Surakarta are colored with natural brown and blue dyes and display the abstracted patterns typical of the region.The textile was collected on the southeast coast of Sumatra, but scholars believe it may have been produced along the north coast of Java, perhaps in the city of Cirebon.The textile’s motifs suggest that it was exported to Sumatra for a Chinese patron.The method was practiced in ancient Egypt and many parts of Asia.But it is on the island of Java that the technique has reached the highest level of complexity. Textual references from the 12th to the 14th centuries describe colored and patterned cloths, but we cannot be certain if the wax resist technique was used to produce them.
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